Beginner’s Guide to Bringing Home Your Ball Python
Bringing home a ball python for the first time is exciting, but proper preparation is essential for their health and comfort. This guide covers everything you need to set up their enclosure, handle them correctly, and ensure a smooth transition.
Step 1: Setting Up the Enclosure
Before bringing your ball python home, make sure their habitat is fully set up and properly heated.
Enclosure Size
• A 20-gallon tank or equivalent (24”x12”x12”) is suitable for a young ball python.
• Adult ball pythons need at least a 40-gallon tank (36”x18”x18”) or a larger tub-style enclosure.
Substrate (Bedding)
• Best options:
• Coconut husk (e.g., ReptiChip) – great for humidity
• Aspen bedding – good for burrowing
• Paper towels/newspaper – best for quarantine and easy cleaning
• Avoid: Sand, cedar, pine, or anything dusty, as they can cause respiratory issues.
Temperature & Humidity
• Warm side: 88-92°F (using an under-tank heating pad or heat lamp)
• Cool side: 75-80°F
• Humidity: 50-60% (increased to 70% during shedding)
• Use digital thermometers and a hygrometer to monitor conditions.
Hides & Decor
• At least two hides (one on the warm side, one on the cool side).
• A water bowl big enough for soaking but not too deep.
• Climbing branches and artificial plants for enrichment.
Step 2: Bringing Your Ball Python Home
Transportation Tips
• Your snake will likely come in a small, dark container to reduce stress.
• Keep them warm but avoid direct sunlight or extreme temperature changes.
Placing Them in the Enclosure
• DO NOT handle your snake right away.
• Gently place them in their enclosure and close the lid.
• Leave them alone for at least 3-5 days to let them settle in.
Step 3: First Feeding
When to Feed
• Wait at least one full week before offering food.
• Feeding too soon can cause stress and refusal.
What to Feed
• Young ball pythons: live or frozen/thawed hopper mice every 5-7 days.
• Adults: Medium to large rats every 10-14 days.
Feeding Tips
• If feeding frozen/thawed, warm the rodent in warm water (not hot) before offering.
• Use tongs, not your hands, to avoid being mistaken for food.
Step 4: Handling Your Ball Python
When to Start Handling
• Wait at least one full week AND after they successfully eat before handling.
• If they refuse food, wait until they eat before trying.
Handling Tips
1. Approach from the side – Avoid sudden movements or grabbing from above.
2. Support their body – Let them move naturally over your hands.
3. Limit handling to 10-15 minutes at first, 2-3 times per week.
4. DO NOT handle after feeding – Wait 48 hours to avoid regurgitation.
Step 5: Basic Care & Maintenance
Cleaning Schedule
• Spot clean daily (remove waste and soiled bedding).
• Deep clean the entire enclosure monthly with reptile-safe disinfectant.
Signs of a Healthy Ball Python
• Bright, clear eyes (except during shedding).
• Smooth scales and a relaxed body.
• Steady tongue flicking and curiosity.
Signs of Illness or Stress
• Refusal to eat for multiple weeks (except during shedding).
• Wheezing, excessive yawning, or bubbles around the mouth (respiratory infection).
• Consistently hiding for long periods without exploring.
Final Thoughts
The key to a happy, healthy ball python is patience and proper care. Give them time to adjust, maintain their environment, and handle them gently. Over time, your ball python will become comfortable and thrive in your care!
Would you like a checklist for supplies or a feeding schedule template?